What Nzxt Case Has The Best Airflow – The NZKST H710 is a slight update to the H700 we reviewed two years ago. To be precise, I reviewed his H700i with Smart, but this time he sent me the basic version from NZKST. The look and feel of the case is nearly identical to the original his H700, so we’ll focus on cataloging all the minor changes to see how the H700’s case design holds up for 2019.
Start with the changes to the NZKST listing on the H710 product page. NZKST said: We haven’t reviewed the H710i, but Smart Devices V2 is either coming soon or has already been announced when this review is published.
What Nzxt Case Has The Best Airflow
The USB-C 3.1 Gen 2 connector replaces his two USB-A 2.0 connectors on the original H700. Audio input/output connections are also integrated into a single 4-pin jack, ending up with 1 power button, 1 USB-C 3.1 plug, 2 USB-A 3.0 plugs and 1 audio connector. I was. Each one is different, but we’ve made it clear how we think about reducing I/O in the name of minimalism.
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The glass side panels are the most noticeable and significant change. One of our gripes with the H700 was that the steel side panel came off with a single spring-loaded button, while the glass side panel required four screws to be removed the old-fashioned way. On the H710, the side panels hook onto the bottom, snap into plastic sockets on top, and are held in place with a single screw. This is a much better solution and takes advantage of the inflexible nature of glass to reduce screws. The only flaw we noticed was that the decorative purple plastic tab fell off, probably due to the heat during shipping.
In addition to the changes above, I may have overlooked some minor changes as I have to rely on my own observations. The first thing I noticed was a few small cable tie points on the back of the cable management strip that let you route some LED or fan cables invisibly all the way to the glass side panel. This is another good move, as the top of the cable management strip is too wide to hold anything reasonably tight.
Like the H510 Elite, the previous generation’s complicated spring-loaded SSD sleds have been replaced with a simple, one-piece plastic tray that’s cheaper to manufacture. It’s also probably easier to use, especially the one on the side of his PSU cover. It used to be a nice thread that left 6 visible holes in the cover if removed, but the new one clipped easily into the cover and left no holes. A hole that can be seen when removed. The 3.5-inch HDD cage is more of a mixed bag. The H700 had two stacked single drive bays that could be removed individually and secured with screws. The new design is much simpler and holds 3 drives but only slides in and out of a steel box (no sleds). The position of the cage can be adjusted back and forth between the PSU and the front panel. Also, there is still room for additional drives that can be installed directly into the case next to the cage. In fact, the cage now uses the same rail spacing as the 3.5″ drives, so you can fit more HDDs in the bottom of the case without the cage, at the expense of retaining more heat. Free up cable space.
Other notes: Renderings show them, but there are no removable cable channels or Velcro under the SSD sleds behind the motherboard tray, just a few points to secure the cables. The shape of this part of the chassis is slightly different than what is shown on the product page and there is no more room for these cable channels. This is fine. There are many places to tie them. The cable cutout for the 6+2 PCIe power connector at the top of the PSU cover is (should have) been larger, and there’s more free space underneath thanks to the shorter HDD cage. The plastic hooks that hold the steel side plates in place are shaped differently, but work the same, except they get a little tighter once the steel plate is pushed into place.
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I’ve already covered most aspects of this case, so this section will be very short, but a few points are worth mentioning again. First, removing the top and front panels is a pain. They are held in place by tight clips and the best way to knock them down is to force the front panel away from the bottom edge and then forcefully pull the top panel away from the front edge.This removes the front filter. , fan replacement, or removal of the heatsink/fan tray on top of the case, cracked the 4.5cm spindle clip, bent the panel, and left a gap between the front and top plates. there is a risk that By the way, fan trays are still very good. It is held in place by screws and can be turned upside down to move the motherboard further. I would love to have a similar tray on the front of the case.
The last thing I want to check is the Velcro straps and the rear exhaust fan. The fan slot on the back supports 120mm or 140mm fans, and the fan can be moved up and down by 6cm or 4cm. Unfortunately, having both of these features means the 120mm rail blocks a good chunk of his standard 140mm fan. As for the Velcro straps, the two straps on the edge of the case are positioned so that the tail end sticks out and there is no convenient place to tuck them in.
Prior to load testing, idle temperature results are collected for 10 minutes to determine the cooling performance of the fans and case air ducts at no load. The temperature benchmark is run over 1400 seconds (23 minutes). This was found to be sufficient time to reach equilibrium. Data over time is aggregated and occasionally summarized in charts when interesting or relevant. Balance performance was averaged to produce the graph below.
Load tests are performed using Prime95 LFFT and Kombustor “FurMark” load tests simultaneously. The tests are fully automated using in-house scripts and run with perfect accuracy every time.
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With the torture load, the CPU averaged 51.9C dT, and with the front panel removed it averaged 46.3 dT. It’s a reasonably sized gap and shows that the front panel isn’t completely killing the heat, but part of it is the fact that there are three intake fans to push air. The dust filter is behind the front panel just above the fan, so the perforations on either side of the front panel are not filters and can be left fully open like the 465X. The main issue with the NZKST H-series cases (with the possible exception of the H510 Elite) is thermal performance, and while I’m reluctant to admit this is good enough, airflow has been sacrificed for aesthetic reasons. increase.
The old H700i averaged 53.9C dT in the CPU torture test, just two degrees below his H710 result just measured. The two cases are nearly identical, but it’s been a long time since I wrote the first review: the testing environment has become more consistent, there’s always variation between fans, and the cases aren’t exactly identical to ours. No. We don’t mind slight differences from previous results, but buyers shouldn’t expect much improvement over the H700.
Compared to the other cases on the graph, 52.9C dT is pretty average overall, but below par for the stock 4 fan case. It sits between 465X RGB (three fans) and Core P3 (fanless, outdoors). Both are great at cooling your CPU, but stay away from cases like the H500 Mesh and P400A that combine a full set of fans with a vented front panel.
GPU torture averaged 50.4C dT and maxed out at 46.5C dT with the front panel removed. As with the CPU test, this isn’t a huge leap and I can’t criticize NZKST’s front panel design too much, but it could be improved. All three of his air intakes in the front are plugged. There is a large air intake cutout under the bottom edge of the faceplate, and a fair amount of the front of the PSU cover has been removed. There are many holes on the top of the cover. I pasted the shroud as part of my previous review of the H700i and didn’t see any real change in performance, but it certainly doesn’t hurt. Due to the shortened HDD cage, the bottom intake fan may move. some air